Aesthetics Photo Editing Tutorial
So what you do is, I'm going to go, there's an option under here called File Revert. That just gives it back to when I first opened the document or
at least last saved, okay? So go all the way to the beginning. So the more pro way of using that tool is to create a new layer down here.
It's a blank layer, nothing on it. I'm gonna call it my retouch layer, and all I need to do is the same tool,
but I need to do this one here that says sample all layers. So instead of like, only just gonna look through to this layer underneath, okay?
And make sure it feels as not it safe to content the way it should be by default it should be set to normal, just copy what I've got.
So now when I do it, same thing happens, watch I can kind of paint over these things, paint over, paint over.
And you can work your way around, brush sizes remember is square brackets next to open and close.
Okay, you can go through and you can start working it, but after a while It starts looking a bit fake.
Okay, I'm just so good, that it's not looking fake.
Okay, let's have a look now. Now, that person is, yeah, let's say it's starting to look a little fake or plasticky.
Okay, what you can do is this layer, it's on its own layer, which is the perfect, but it's what they call nondestructive.
Okay cuz the background is fine. So what I can do is turn on and off, on and off. It's really good for just seeing your work.
Okay? Okay, so your handiwork. And the other thing you can do is if it is starting to look a bit fake because you've just been at it for a long time, often with this retouch layer selected,
just drag the opacity down a little bit. And what that does is it lets some of the background, it just makes us a little see
through, so you can start to see what's happening right down, right up or down. You can just kind of find your balance of real life,
kind of like maybe muting the the marks and blemishes rather than turning them off, because the problem with a lot of like.
I had a friend in this casting for models and the problem is their headshots and she'll get people in and like, hey, you don't look like that person at all really,
you know? Because of all the retouching, so sometimes, it needs to be a kind of
a balance, I guess, softening some of the features or the wrinkles or the acne.
Whatever it is, that's the technique, make sure it's on its own layer, make sure sample or lasers in there. So let's get away from retouching people and
let's look at one of the cool practical uses of say something like this. Now we've got our brick wall here and it's got so many needs more love.
Okay, and we want to remove it. Let's say it's just bad graffiti. That's good graffiti.
We all need more love. So same technique here. We're going to make a new layer. So we're going to use our spot healing brush and
now we're gonna find an appropriate brush size. I'm gonna zoom in a little bit, okay? And my 50 from last time is probably gonna work.
Now when you're doing this, you need to need to click hold your mouse key down and paint. I'm holding down the mouse key the whole time and just give it a good work, okay?
And now let go, and [LAUGH] Partially worked, okay?
So I'm gonna paint him out as well, and we're getting there. Now, this wall's gonna be pretty forgiving because of the brickwork, it's so damaged.
If this was a really even brick wall, this technique is going to be average at best. It's really good with nature, okay?
So some of the things down here, say you wanna remove this glass bottle, whatever it is, okay, it's really good. It's really hard to tell where it was.
Okay? If you do find it not working for you, you can go to Edit undo and just try again. Often just the act of trying again will give you a different result.
Okay, so you can keep working your way around, okay? When you're practicing, keep working your way around,
you'll get the sense of kind of how it works. You can see I lost that bit, but it depends I guess, it's pretty amazing though, right?
If you had to go ahead, if you're old school Photoshopper, and you'll be like clone tool stamp, forget the Clone tool stamp, wow, that was a good move.
Okay? So, you can kind of work these out. Let's look at this last option here. And it's really really good for that's kind of like natural textures.
Okay, so I'm zooming it a little bit. My brush size, I'm going to make it a bit bigger. You can see I can click on this actually backed in.
New layer, make sure a sample of layers. I'm just going to paint some of this stuff out.
You can see pretty magic? I can't believe how good this tool is. And it works amazingly, because of this rough texture.
If it was perfectly like some sort of checkerboard, it wouldn't work because there's too many repeating patterns.
Now, where it doesn't work, and sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. I grabbed this example, assuming that I couldn't mask out this person like,
no way, it'll do badly. Then I went and made a big paintbrush and I painted her out.
And then something. Photoshop did some magic. I have to wait a little while because it's doing its best,
but then she just disappeared. I was like, not a good example. But there will be times where it just doesn't work.
You'll try and do it and it will try its best but it'll look like there's some sort of weird distortion going on in the world.
And know that it does work really well, it's a great kind of starting point at least if it doesn't work perfectly you can try and touch it up either ways.
But like I teach this all the time and I'm so impressed, like these are new examples and I'm just like man, how good is that tool?
All right, so that's going to be it. Remember, it's on it's own layer, so we can, no instruction, we can go back later on. But yeah, that is going to be the end for the spot healing brush in this exercise.
We're gonna look at the next tutorial where actually it's even more amazing. It's called content aware.
So we'll do that next in the next video. Hi there, in this video we're going to look at something called content aware fill.
It is my second most favorite tool or feature in all of Photoshop. It allows to do fun things where I've got this extra space over here.
This is the original image. I just need to magic up some background in. Pray pester. Let's look at another couple examples where this one here, actually the original
is the smaller version, but the background got invented using Content Aware scale. A couple more examples that's the original I tighten them all together in about two
seconds using the same tool. Let's look at this last one here, I've got a really terrible format, okay,
it's a banner ad or a big little box image, can I need all this background in, magic, the table got bigger, background got bigger.
Let's learn how to do this now in Adobe Photoshop. All right, to get started let's open up all of the 19 series that are in
the source file, so there's 19, A, B, C and D. We're gonna start with this one here called from met Quinn.
Okay, this lovely macro photograph of the bee, or wasp. And the original photograph ends here but we need it to be longer for
let's say it's, when you end up blowing up photographs on a double page spread so like across the middle of a magazine across two pages.
There's always this like gap on the edge here because the formats don't match up in terms of sizes, so we just need to make it a bit bigger.
Now we could try using the healing brush and Clone tool stamp and there's lots of options but there's this magical tool.
Remember my second favorite tool in this whole program, so the first thing we need to do is just make sure on the right layer it should be already layer zero.
Bet naming then, then go to our magic tool under Edit, and go to Content Aware Scale, okay?
I'm gonna Escape. If I just use the regular scale transform that we have I'm going to scale it out, and obviously it's not going to be particularly exciting.
But if I use this one, it really hit it, content aware scale, and start dragging it slowly this way.
Watch what happens. Magic? The background gets bigger. But the bee/wasp and flower stay exactly the same.
When you've got it the way you want, hit enter and dance around because that is a super cool useful tool to use.
Okay, so let's say we gonna use this one here. Okay, and now it's not gonna work in every instance,
if you are like goodness that is it. That's the only tool I need. Okay, it works. I've picked some images that work particularly well.
It works really good when there's an object and some generic background. If this was cropped in really kind of like this,
really small like this, it's not gonna work very well, okay? So it doesn't work on all. Give it a test.
And we'll look at a few examples now and see how to work it. So this one here, what we need to do for it to work is I need to go to Edit.
And look, Content Aware Scale doesn't work on this image here. So we're in 19 B. We're looking at Katherine Hanlon's.
So for this to work, we've run into this problem a couple of times being in the background, it's got a lock on it. So double click it with background give it a name, Helen's.
And what we're gonna do is I'm gonna zoom out a little bit, okay? And I need to distinct, cuz I wanna make it say a Facebook profile.
You know the type of Facebook where you've got the big, let's call it like a litter box kind of format, where it's kind of wide.
So I'm gonna use my crop tool, originally in this one here I did that for you, okay?
Remember we had it this size, okay? So I'm put it together this time. So using the crop tool, you can see here earlier we cropped things down,
but you can actually crop things out, okay? So I'm cropping it out so that I've got this extra room here, I'm not going to get to go.
Hit return when you got the crop right, with it same last selected, Edit, content aware scale, and then, start dragging.
You'll see, our flower somehow stay magically while in a position and the wall gets bigger.
Just super cool. Okay, let's hit enter to confirm it. Now you might run into a problem here where Crop tool, I'm going to click once,
drag it up. So you want to make it bigger because you want to put some meaning some roof a text at the top here. The trouble with this one is that it's not going to work particularly well so
it doesn't work in all cases. So watch especially dragging it up, the wall gets bigger, but eventually can you see the pots getting bigger?
Okay, so there are times where it just doesn't quite work but it's still pretty cool.
Who knew what that vase look like this time with art. Let's look at some other instances. Let's look at 19c.
So we've kind of expanded things out and that's cool, but you can also so back to my move tool. Make sure double click this layer.
This one here is Annie's, we've got a couple from here, this one and the next one.
Okay? And let's say that this placements here, well, I guess I want to show you an example we can do it,
continuous scale instead of going out which is super cool. Watch this, you can go in. Can you see the bottom guys, start moving in?
There's magic and the shadows start distorting. And watch this, you can tighten all these guys together to make a nice,
kind of a smaller group. Eventually it's going to start doing weird stuff, okay? But for slight adjustments like this, man, instead of trying to mask them all out and
move them together, this is such a big time saver. Can I shrink ' down and spread ' out?
I can, I can kind of reform this whole kind of composition here really quite easily. Hit return when you are finished and I will grab my move tool.
My computer is gonna stress out. Okay, move tool, there we go.
We've got this kind of like, little bit of distortion there but you get the idea right? Now let's look at this last one and get a little bit more hardcore because there
are got to be times where everything looks perfect except for this one little thing. So I'm gonna do the same thing here, I'm gonna zoom out, here's my crop tool, okay?
Because I want to do that little box again, I want to be quite big ish. I use this heaps when I'm doing, I do a lot of HTML banner ads which are just
really weird shapes, you know that kind of really long, thin leatherboard or banner ad, or that skyscraper that's just really bad format.
Okay, so reshaping images this way is perfect. So I've used the crop tool, make sure my name is not background.
And I'm gonna go to edit, transform, I'm gonna go to edit, content aware scale,
there's gonna be a bit of a problem look, you can see him the as the paper. So everything else is pretty amazing right?
The desk just got bigger, the leaves stay fine, the scissors are great, that it couldn't work out this thing got a little lost in there.
So we hit Escape, say I didn't mean it, and what we can do is we can protect bits of areas.
So if you scale it out and it's not quite working, what you do is you collect any selection tool you like. Might be the, we can use the rectangle and Elliptical Marquee tool.
We're gonna use our favorite, the quick selection tool. And I'm just gonna kinda draw box in there and it's super quick and easy,
just kind of runs out and grabs the edges of this which is perfect. And I'm gonna go to Select Save Selection.
Okay, so we need to do this step first. So we make any selection we like, we figure out the bad bets, go to Select, Save selection.
You give the selection a name, A name, I never do, you should. Okay, I'm gonna go to Select, Deselect.
So I'm done with that now. You just make your selections. It could be multiple selections. In my case it's just a little one.
Now when I go to Edit, content aware scale, okay? And there's an option up here that says protect, drop that down, and it says,
A name, that's the thing I wrote. Okay, and now hopefully its gonna protect that little selection.
Hit return. My goodness, that is pretty amazing. I love it so much.
Now we're doing pretty big examples here. We're dragging it quite far out to kind of show off a little bit, but
you might be doing two smaller adjustments just to kind of make it a bit bigger or to fit your dimensions.
Okay, drag it out, see if anything goes wrong. If something does go wrong, see if you can make a selection first.
Save that selection then start dragging and use that protect feature. Now, another caveat for
this one is that it's gonna work on 40% of your images perfectly. Okay, using the techniques we've learned here, there are some that just don't work,
really kind of confusing backgrounds where maybe it's a crop in really tight of an object or a person.
It doesn't work very well. So there are times where just doesn't work and it's never gonna work. But there are times where it's just a lifesaver and
half a day's worth of Photoshop work can be fixed with Content Aware scale. All right, let's get on to one of the last videos where we look at exporting for
all the different kinds of formats, web, social, print, all right, I'll see you over there. Hey everyone, this video is all about exporting our files out of Photoshop.
So we've done our work, we're finished, and now we need to do something with them. We'll cover how to send them to different Adobe applications, as well as
sending them out to print and web and social media, so let's get started. So first up, open up our file, it's called 20-Exporting.psd.
Now, this is something we've worked on earlier, so you can have your version open if you like. So the first use case is let's say I've designed this and I wanna put it
into something like Adobe InDesign, and that's a desktop publishing app. So where I make my magazines and books and flyers and brochures.
Now this technique is true for all of the Adobe software, could be After Effects, it could be Premiere, it could be Illustrator.
All they really want is, there's actually nothing to do when you export it, you just leave it as this PSD, this working file with all these layers,
exactly the same file you use in Photoshop. I'll show you what I mean, so I'm working on this document here in InDesign.
I wanna bring in my file, File, they use Place in InDesign. I find my source file, it's number 20, click Open,
I drag out my file, want to kind of cover this thing. Great, move down, Cool, so that's my kinda banner that I've created.
And you can see, it just comes through, looks great, it'll print fine from InDesign. Okay, so if you need to incorporate a Photoshop document in any other Adobe
product, just bring in the PSD. One of the perks for it, though, is if I go back into Photoshop, And
in here, and I need to make some amends, so let's say this flower here, I'll just kind of move it around or decide that it needs to be a bit higher, back there.
The background, okay, I need to change, gonna go to Adjustments, there's an invert adjustment, okay, and it's just flipped the colors around.
All I need to do is File > Save, jump back into InDesign, and in here, nothing really happens,
except here my links panel has a little little icon saying modified.
Okay, I'm gonna click to update it. And you can see, just went and updated. Okay, so it's a really quick and
easy way to work within other Adobe products, is just to use the PSD. And the cool thing is is that when you edit the Photoshop document,
it flows into other products. Now let's look at another use case where we wanna go to print, so
let's jump back into Photoshop. So here in Photoshop, I need to send this to a printer, okay,
either my home printer, or email it to somebody to get commercially printed, it might be a flyer or a business card.
And in this case, because there's text and maybe a logo, we're gonna use the PDF format.
Okay, so we'll do that one first, and then we'll look at maybe just using a kind of straight-up image. So this one here, if I wanna send this to the printer,
File, we use the Save As instead of Export. Okay, click on Save As, there's an option in here, if you click on the word PSD,
okay, or Photoshop, find the one that says Photoshop PDF. Okay, I'm gonna put mine on my Desktop, okay, Desktop,
even, and give it a name, I'm gonna click Save, click OK. There's a lot of warning dialogs when we're using this particular save method,
cuz what we wanna do is, we wanna turn this off. With that on, it's basically just a Photoshop file, and the file size is huge.
Okay, we don't need that, we're sending it to the printer, we don't need them to have all the Photoshop kind of adjustment layers.
We just want it to retain all the image, the transparencies, and any vector that we're working with, like the type.
So we've turned that off, and at the top here, just make sure you're on High Quality Print.
Go back to High Quality Print, it turns this back on, so I turn it off, and it's High Quality Print Modified. If you see modified, don't sweat it, all that means is that you turned that off.
You click Save, and it freaks out and says, hey, normally, I think I've turned my warning off.
It says, hey, you sure you wanna turn those things off, you say, yes I do. Cool, I'm gonna close it down now, and let's have a look,
I just wanna close it down now. Let's have a look at my desktop, there he is there, there's my PDF.
Okay, the cool thing about him is, he's a real small file size compared to the original. The original that we opened was at 20 megabytes, and it still retains all
the niceness, that good quality, any type has really crisp edges. So that's a great way of sending stuff to the printer.
Let's explore a different exporting use case that's kind of more simple. We just did the retouching earlier, and let's say,
now I need to send it to somebody to get printed. Okay, it's going to a photo lab to get printed on nice stock,
they don't need a PDF. The PDF will look fine, what they'll probably be looking for is a JPEG, and let's look at using our print JPEG.
You do it under File > Save As, again, and there's lots of options in here for JPEG. What you want is just the standard JPEG, none of these other ones.
Click on that, gonna stick it on my desktop, I'm gonna call this, it's on my Desktop, I'm gonna call this Model, okay, click Save.
And this is where I guess it's quite important, if you're sending this. We've done some retouching, it's a great photograph,
we wanna keep it as large as we can, okay, we don't wanna kind of drop any quality. Okay, you wouldn't, especially if you want, yeah, this is a commercial print,
we wanna make it look nice, keep the largest file size, let's click OK. Let's check my Desktop now, and now I've got my JPEG.
Okay, how big is he, let's check him, he's 2.7 megabytes. So still really small, but it will print really nicely.
The difference between that and, say, the PSD we had before, is there's no layers left in this one. You can see in my Photoshop document, okay there's actually two layers.
This JPEG is a flat pancake, but perfect for sending to the printer because they don't need to see your separate layers.
They just want kind of a nice, compact, small, good-quality file to print.
All right, the next use case is going out to either a website or social media, and the kinda same rules apply to both of them.
It's about getting great quality image for the smallest file size. Because they they need to upload, especially for our website,
we don't wanna be waiting for you image to load, we want it to go super fast. So let's look at this first option here, and let's say I wanna save this out for
a banner for a Facebook title, or say it's an Instagram post. What I wanna do is go to File, and in a slightly different place,
it's under Export, and this one here. Export As is the magic one, click on Export As.
If you're using Save for Web, it works okay, Export As is better in my opinion.
Okay, so in this one here, because there's no transparency, by transparency, remember, there's no checkerboard in the background, there's no
kind of hole in the background, in this case, a JPEG is gonna be the best, okay? And the quality slider, when we exported the print version of a JPEG, we had to
use a different way because it retains more detail that's used for printing.
Because it's going to a website, or to our social media account, Instagram or Facebook or Twitter, we don't need that same level, so
we use the Export As feature. And whereas before we had the quality jammed up as high as we can because we
weren't worried about file size, in this case, it's basically as low as you can go. Can you go down to 2% quality?
The way to know is, if you zoom in, can you start to see, it's starting to look pretty junky at 2%.
The cool thing about it, though, is over here, you can see it's actually 37 kilobytes. Okay, so it's teeny tiny.
So best to check it at 100%, okay? And you can see, even 100%, you can see some of the interpolation or
some of the pixels all glooping together. So how low should you go? My rough rule of thumb is between, so low is 30 and high is 60.
Okay, I find somewhere in there is my middle ground normally, there are exceptions. Let's try 30, click out somewhere, are you happy with 30?
Zoom in a little bit, this is totally up to you, what is it for? Type is gonna kinda stand it out quite a bit,
you're not gonna notice it too much in here. You can see it still looks pretty good, even when I'm zoomed in. Okay, but things that have crisp edges will stand out a little bit more.
So I might decide, actually, I'm gonna go up to 60. You can just drag this up and down by clicking here and just going up and
down and deciding what you want. You can see the file size, though, is a lot bigger at 135 than it is at 30, so it's a trade-off.
If you don't care about file size, go for the higher version. So for websites, file size is really important, for social media, not so much.
Leave it at 100%, that's fine if you're gonna just post it to your Twitter account. All right, once you've got it there, I'm gonna click Export All,
give it a name on my Desktop, and leave it as is, .jpg, hit Save, and we're done.
Now there are occasions where you spend ages getting a mask, okay, I've turned off the background, the eyeball here.
Remember we did these masks earlier, okay, and we spent a lot of time doing it, cuz we need transparency. Often, you'll only need transparency if it's going out to a website.
Not everyone's gonna need this, okay, but let's say we need to retain the see-throughness of our image.
Because on the website, you can actually see through to the background, which is perfect. So all we need to do is just go to the same feature File > Export > Save As,
we just save it as a PNG. A JPEG, you will see, will fill in the checkerboard transparency with white,
cuz a JPEG just can't handle transparency, but a PNG magically can. Okay, so we'll leave that, even though it's got a checkerboard,
it'll just be see-through. This might be cool if you're going out to, say, a video product, and you wanna keep the transparency.
Or in my case, I do a lot of web stuff, so it just needs the transparency. Big trade-off is there's no quality slider, and over here,
you can see the file size is really big. If it wasn't so big, okay, and didn't have so much stuff going on in it,
it would be a lot smaller, but yeah. That's how you get out a file for web that has transparency.
Click Save All, Save, And that's it. So hopefully that gives you, quickly go over it once more time.
Okay, so normally just leave it as a PSD if you want to put it into another program like InDesign or Illustrator or AfterEffects.
But if you need to go to print, okay, typically you'll just be doing a JPEG. But you have to go this File > Save As,
JPEG, it's different from the JPEG in here, it has more quality for printing. If, like in this example, there's text involved or logos and vector and
all sorts of stuff going on, it's probably better to save it as a PDF, and that's under the Save. I like to mix them around, Exporting sometimes, Save As sometimes.
So Save As is the PDF. And the last was social media or websites. And it's just hiding under File > Export > Export As.
And a JPEG if you don't have transparency, a PDF, if you do. All right, friends, that is gonna be end of the exporting video,
I will see you in the next one. All right, you made it, it's the last video in the series,
and we'll just talk about what to do from here. Okay, so first of all, I love to see what you've made.
Okay, so if you go to the forums here and search for Adobe Photoshop for beginners, you'll find what other people have done and
share what you've done and I'd like to see it. Okay, or you can share it on social media, if you prefer. Okay, for Twitter, we are TutsPlusDesign, or I'm DanLovesAdobe.
Instagram, I'm BringYourOwnLaptop, so share it there. And then I guess working at what you do next is easy.
The easy one is an advanced Photoshop tutorial, okay, so there's a few of those here on Envato Tuts+, so search for that.
But then you might consider yourself, I guess a bit more specialty. Okay, so if you're a photographer, the next steps for
you might be more going into something called Camera Raw, or Adobe's Lightroom. That might be your kind of next step for your learning kind of experience.
If you are a web designer or UI kind of interface designer, you might look to use,
there's some courses here for Photoshop specifically for web and UI design.
Okay, there's a few features that are specifically for you, you might check that out. Or you might move into something like Experience Designer, Adobe XD, okay?
That's a really cool tool for prototyping, websites, and, yeah, apps.
You might be in the marketing field or communications, okay? You might find the next best course is something else,
something like InDesign, which is desktop publishing. Or Illustrator, which is more to do with creating graphics and
illustrations and icons and logos, that type of thing. Or another nice thing you might go check out if you're in
that space is something called Adobe Spark. It's a really cool way for doing social media posts real super quick.
Fix photos in Photoshop, and then add some graphics real quickly in Adobe Spark.
So that is going to be us, we are done, we had a great time together, I hope you did, I did.
And that's gonna be the end of the course. I'm going to finish with an awkward wave. Bye now, I hope to see you in another course.
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